On the way hone

Stayed in Memphis last night, hit Beale street. Pretty good music for a Monday night. Bourbon and Beal streets in a 24-period. 

Bert has slow leak in rear tire, so being cautious on the highway. 

Captain America and Fountains

7 foot guy walking a 4 inch dog that is smoking a cigar

Little girl playing in fountain behind Pete Fountain 

Felix Story

Bald guy walks into an oyster bar. Actually bypasses long line and is waved into a spot at the bar / counter. The three oyster shucker's all come over and give the guy fist bumps. Start piling oysters on the bar in front of him and  mix up special sauce (heavy on the horseradish and Crystal). Bald guy orders a coke and shucker's ask if he is ok, doesn't he want an Abita and vodka chaser?? Guy says " I'm cool with a coke". Trade a bunch of stories and lots of smiles. They can't believe he rode a motorcycle to NOLA just to get a couple dozen sliders.

Rest of people at the bar are thinking who is this dude? Person next to the bald guy is an ex LSU quarterback. They start talking about motorcycles and stuff. Bald guy says " how many people are required to ride a Harley?" Ex-quarterback says "one?" No, answers bald guy - need 3 people. "One to ride the bike, one to follow, and one with a truck to pick up the first guy when his bike breaks down.." Ex-quarterback not happy, he is part owner of a Harley dealership. Bald guy is able to escape certain death by chomping on an oyster that contained a pearl and presenting pearl to ex-quarterback's  girlfriend.

The Big Mr. Sexy

Allegedly retired, but spotted in the quarter.

The pic below was actually taken last year, but important to get the entire outfit in view (fishnets and platform shoes).

All the necessities in a single place

Beer, liquor, food, laundromat, gambling, Russian mafia - one stop shopping...

Street Shaving

A few Picts - narrative to follow later

Point Otter to Asheville, NC - total fog out

Oh boy, what a ride. Left in the rain and that was the best part of the day. Hardly anyone on the road which was good because very slick pavement. Full rain gear, bags covered, tank bag covered.

Went slow all day, rain stopped so I decided to try and make it to Asheville which is kind of the gateway to the Smokies, from the east. Huge mistake. Fog rolled in and it took me 3 hours to ride 25 miles. No exits, no gas, no camping places - just fog at 4-5000 feet. Told Bert this was just a test, we had been through worse (well at least at the time I said this to him..). Less than 5 feet visibility, hazard lights on, fog lights on, flashlight in my mouth-type of fog. But very surreal and kind of cool.

Took some great videos with my GoPro camera, but having trouble posting them - probably file size is too large.

NOLA

Hi,  I'm in NOLA. Interesting couple of days. Being a good boy, back at hotel - have to admit I had 29 oysters at Felix (they recognize me) and a Lucky Dog. Going all the way out to the end of  the road (Grand Isle) where bayou ends. May even stay out there, depends on traffic and weather. Terrible ride from Natchez,  thunder storms and bubba's in pickup trucks.

Lots of stories, try to post tomorrow. I think I fixed Bert - the boys at BMW SE Michigan are going to receive a total shit storm for their incompetent  service when I get back.

My route so far

First day - A2 to Finley to Mansfield to Wheeling,WV.  Not a whole lot to describe. Usual construction in Ohio. Got lost in Finley (embarrassing since I have been through there a million times), passed the site of a big track victory for me (Mansfield Relays) and stayed the night in Wheeling.  There was a wedding going on and I had to scramble to find a room. Leveraged my Marriott status to snag last room.  Forgot how hilly eastern Ohio is.

Second day - Wheeling to Front Royal, VA. Front Royal is starting point for the Sky Line Parkway which then turns into the Blue Ridge Highway. Town was settled in 1754. Rode slightly ahead of massive thunderstorm. Hotel I stayed in was built in the 40's. Tile like original tile at Morton. Shower head was at my collarbone, people were shorter when motel was built.

Third Day - Began ride on parkway. Beautiful 2-lane road, limited access, no trucks allowed. The Sky Line is approximately 109 mile in length and has 89 "overlooks". Then got on the Blue Ridge. Listed as one of the top 10 rides in the US. Cloudy, but great views. Road follows the ridge of the mountains, so views on both sides of the road. Saw another Black Bear. The Application Trail criss-crosses the parkway at many points. Stopped at the Peaks of Otter Lodge, which is a classic National Park Service lodge. Built in the 40's, it overlooks a lake and a large mountain (see pict from previous post), view on my balcony. Famous for their Prime Rib, which I consumed after a long day of twisty road. According to the waiter, the mountain is a great barometer of the seasons. Spring is coming when the leaves at the bottom of the mountain start turning green. Fall is coming when the leaves at the top of the mountain turn red / brown.

Stay tuned for more.  A few Picts:

Short post tonight, want to watch the tigers game.  I'm outside of Smoky Mountains National Park. I have ridden the Skyline Hwy and Blue Ridge Parkway, now headed to Nachez Trace. Lots of rain and fog but beautiful scenery.a few Picts and more tomorrow.

View from my hotel room at Otter Point

Last one was taken from my helmet camera. Still playing around with video option.

The Last Ride

As Todd said, "The last Ride". No more posts. Going to finish it off with a Tiger game tomorrow. Spent way too much money (for a professional ticket dude), but just want to sit in decent seats with my buddy and watch baseball.

Bye. If Neil is going down, so am I. Don't think of this as a total farewell, already planing the next trip :0

Lincoln / Omaha, NE to Milwaukee, WI to Muskegon, to Grand Rapids, MI

Ok, now trying to get back home and finish the trip. Really wanted to keep going but evidently there is a relative squatting in my house. Things are broken, (lots of) things are missing, frat-party damage, antique automobiles driven without permission / insurance, attempt (s) to illegally enter my home, missing keys to my dwelling as well as other people's homes , etc. In my life - the usual because this person is a looser.

One of the main destinations I had planned to stop at was a place in Bonners Ferry, ID. However,  I couldn't stop there because what could I report on that was positive?? Pending assault charges? Lawyers calling me while I was on my trip to demand payment for fraud (non-payment of rent for over a year), calls from my partner informing me of damage to my house? Neighbors complaining about broken glass, bleeding people, fires in my back yard, etc?????

What a way to end a beautiful trip - coming home, yet again,  to clean up and deal with the mess / carnage of a dick-head.

Last ashes of mom, dropped into Lake Michigan departing from  Milwaukee.

A ghost of Uncle David on the left - what is he doing on the ferry to Muskegon?? 

I have many more picts and stories but unfortunately back to reality,  so no motivation to continue posting. 

Best Food on the Trip

This is pretty easy to compose (not in order of being the best,  just the memories):

• Prime Rib in Yellowstone - either Buckaroo or BearTooth restaurant, cant remember the actual name. But bartenderess has life figured out. Five months in West Yellowstone,  rest of the year in Key West. 

• Salmon Burger in Port (Mark, Renne) Renfrew, Vancouver Island, B.C.  - totally unreasonable wait for food. But if you are located at the end of the world, you can dictate the waiting time. Wanted to stay at Handsome's Dan's cottages but they were booked. 

• Fillet Minion (wrapped in Bacon with football sized potato) - Cody, WY - this place has terrible reviews, because of the wait and slow service. I didn't experience these difficulties because I told the bartender that I was with Bert, not a Harley

• Sonic - North Platte, NE - the bomb, chillies in the burger, flies circling Bert and 1, 700 degrees in the shade. They do not take cash, only credit cards

• Coeur d'Alene - Doritos and a Sprite after a long ride, late at night, no hotels and time to sleep

Ft. Collins to Lincoln / Omaha, NE area

Time to start the journey home. Lots of places I still want to visit, but it is time to point Bert towards the big lake. My original plan (per conversations with Road Hog and others) was to return via the northern route (either hwy 2 or 200) but that would require a significant drive north before turning right and heading home. As much as I try to avoid interstate highways, the best route was 34 out of Loveland / Greeley to 76 to 80 east. 

No pictures on this post - this was a ride through nothing. The main sensory function used was not my eyes, but my nose. This is cattle country. Huge cattle ranches and "processing facilities".  Miles of veal-farms (small enclosures where the cute little cattle can hardly move so that their meat remains tender). And the stink - flashback to reading Upton Sinclair novels. Herding pens, large manure mountains, and did I mention the stink??  

Then corn country starts. I think Michigan has lots of corn, but in the real mid-west there are hundreds of miles of either grazing land or corn. And did I mention hotness? Flashback to the summer of 1974 when my friend Pat C. and I drove my van from A2 to Denver. When we were in Nebraska, it was so hot that my battery exploded and the acid coated most of the front of the van. This was MF hot, you-can-die-in-this-hot type of environment. Then I started thinking about how our trip ended - going to see Eric Clapton (and surprise guest George Harrison) play at some cow palace in Denver. When the concert was over, we went back to my van. Everything stolen / stripped from the van. I had no money except for a Standard Oil credit card. We had to drive back to Michigan and only stop at Standard gas stations to get gas and food (back then, there was NO "full service" gas stations, best we could hope for was a soda and a slim jim).

Ok, back to the trip. Did I tell you about the stink?? Sorry. When you ride with full gear on, and you are melting down in the 95-degree heat your head gets funny.

Once I crossed the state line into Iowa, the topography changed. Many people dis Iowa, but to me the terrain is somewhat similar to Michigan except that there is no UP, the Great Lakes, and the people have much more realistic expectations about their sports teams (RIP Johnny Orr). 

Ended up somewhere between Lincoln and Omaha, almost out of gas. Out of energy, just wanting to sleep.  One of my last hotel stays and certainly the worst of all. Motel 6 - "we leave the light on, the blaring TV in the next room on, and whatever critters have gathered in your room - no charge". And as a bonus, we have hired a dysfunctional (toothless) crack addict to greet you upon arrival. Welcome! 

Another Road Hog Story

When I was ascending / descending the various passes in the Rocky Mountains, I recalled a story that Road Hog told me about going over the BearTooth outside of Yellowstone. He and his wife were ascending the pass when it began to snow. He said they were going barely 5-10 MPH, in second gear, up the road. The sleet had covered his face and he asked his wife to wipe the sleet off. She said "F-no, this was your stupid idea, my hands are too cold and they are staying in my pockets".

Once they made it to the top, it was warm on the other side and the ride continued without further conflict.

Winter Park to Idaho Springs to Estes Park to Granby to Ft. Collins

A very long day, but over-the-top views. Rode through the heart of Rocky Mountains National Park. Ride included a 12, 000 foot ascent / decent / ascent / decent via the highest continuous paved road in the US. I rode up, over and down, then turned abound and did the route in reverse. Only negative of the day was stopping in Estes Park. Nothing against the town, but it was an overload of people, cars, tourist shops, etc. Like Mackinaw Island on steroids. Probably a great place to spend a few days with a family, but just "too much" for me.

On the way to Estes Park, I went through a town called Central City / Black Hawk (population around 600 people). Clearly this was a mining town in the past and there are still many visible mining buildings in the area. Part of the 1860's gold rush, the Gregory Lode in Gregory Gulch (cool names) was the main gold bearing vein. What is interesting is that these two small towns are out in the middle of nowhere, but host a least 30 casinos in an area the size of Dexter, MI. Very strange.

Similar to my other rides over high mountain passes, the photo opts were numerous:

The route out of Estes Park towards Loveland / Ft. Collins is hwy 34. It follows the Big Thompson Canyon / River. Beautiful potential pictures, but no place to stop. As I rode down the canyon, it was clear that there had been significant flooding recently (demolished houses, bad erosion). Also, I passed through a town which name sounded familiar. Turns out that in 1976 there was a terrible flash flood which killed 144 people and then another flood last September. The picture below is an example of the devastation which occurred. The road in the picture is the route I road on today :().

Ft. Collins to Winter Park via Roosevelt and Arapahoe National Parks

A very pretty, twisting ride today. Took 14 west out of Ft. Collins to 125 South through Granby and stopped in Winter Park for the night. Didn't take a lot of pictures, but not because of bad scenery, just a great day to ride along twisty roads. I love roads where they have a gate and flashing lights and a sign which says "if the lights are flashing turn around and go home". Learned that there are no Grizzly Bears in Colorado so decided to stop along the way and took a nap next to a stream.  A few picts to illustrate the ride:

Checking into the hotel I asked the lady where she was from. She said Holland. She and her husband came out to Winter Park for a vacation and never left. She said "we get along fine, he is a downhill skier and I like cross country skiing. I do the front desk work and he does the maintenance, we never see each other :)".

Winter Park is a big ski area. However, I cant imagine driving up from Denver, during a snow storm, on a Friday night, via the twisty roads.

Things to take, not take next time

Things I would not take next time:

• Half my clothes. I way over packed on clothing. I did not need 3 pairs of shorts, 5 nice short sleeved shirts, 3 pairs of jeans, etc.
• Half my toiletries. There are places called stores where you can buy anything you need, no reason to fill up your luggage with this stuff
• My camera case. My camera spent the entire trip in my tank bag. My camera case just took up space in one of my luggage bags. Only used it to keep a bottle of Gatorade cool during the day
• Wax and chrome polish - total waste of space
• Duplicate tools. I'm riding a BMW, not a Harley so nothing is going to break anyway. I don't need 2 sets of identical hex tools, 5 screwdrivers, my oil change kit, etc.
• Spare raincoat. My rain gear is better and more functional than my north face rain jacket
• Battery charger - I'm riding 4-8 hours per day, if that doesn't charge the battery, I have a battery issue not a charger issue

Things I would take next time:

• Duct Tape
• Extension cord - hotel outlets (especially in budget hotels) are not always located in a practical place
• Music back up. The loss of the first mini was felt every time I wanted to listen to music during a long ride
• Running stuff. It was on the packing list but didn't make the cut due to me thinking I needed a bunch of extra clothes I ended up never wearing. I think my running shoes would have added an extra dimension to the trip and helped me ride less per day
• GoPro Camera!
• Very compact sleeping bag and micro tent. There were hundreds of places in B.C., Washington, Colorado where I could have pulled over and camped. Beautiful places on the beach, next to rivers, etc.
• Michelin - type maps for selected areas. Sometimes google maps didn't work in remote places. Also, needed more detail on rural roads 
• Neosporin and anti-itch cream (saddle sores)

Sheridan to Casper to Cheyenne, WY to Ft. Collins, CO

Nice ride through a lot of space. Everything here is big: the clouds, the contrasts, the vistas, the colors.  Good cruising day, mostly highway, steady 80MPH. Very hot, mid-90s again. Goal was to get to Ft. Collins, CO which is the gateway to Estes Park, Rocky Mountains National Park, etc.

While the ride was long, the scenery was beautiful. I could see the ridge of the Continental Divide mountains to my right. They blocked most of the moisture, so the ride was through very dry landscape. However, it was clear that at some point in time there was lots of water in this area.

Ended up at a hotel near the first legal recreational marijuana dispensary in Colorado. The traffic going in and out if the office complex where the dispensary is located is amazing. Stopped at the gas station near the entrance to fill up on gas. Saw an ATM in the store.  Said to the attendant "this is probably a very popular ATM". He smiled and said "oh yes, sometimes they have to fill it three times in a single day".

Thanks Bert

As the trip begins to wind down, I realize how much Bert has played a significant part of the ride. We are now at 10,150 miles and he has never let me down. All he asks for is food, good shoes, and an occassional bath. We have been through bad rain storms, 12,000 foot accents,  65 miles of bad gravel roads, a flat tire, three lay downs, weeks of 90 plus degree rides, and five near misses.  What a loyal friend.  I may not take Bert to Alaska next year, but he will be in my garage forever.

• Bert has few complaints as long as the octane is the right grade and the oil level is correct
• Bert is designed to Tour. He doesn't need to go to the beauty parlor every evening. In fact, he likes to be dirty and bug covered because he knows he has put in an honest ride and it's the ride /experience that is more important than what others may think

What I began to notice, at about 5000 miles, was that people seemed to immediately notice Bert amongst the other pretty-boy bikes and they came over and wanted to talk. Kind of like the Red Sox with their disgusting, dirty, bashed up batting helmets. This bike is cool, you can tell he is here to ride, whatever the situation, and somehow he will purservere. 

A few more days of Picts and stories and then the ride will be done for awhile until the Alaska journey.

Déjà vu - duplicate keys and similar steaks

Dr. Crosby said "And I feel. Like I've been here before". Well if you have been sitting on a motorcycle for 10,000 miles, things start to blend together. Two stories illustrate this.

A number of the chain hotels have evidently negotiated a deal with Dominos to have the local pizza franchise featured on the hotel room key. I check into some hotel, get my key, drop off my stuff, and go to dinner. I come back and my key won't work. I'm tired, grumpy and my butt hurts. I go to the lobby and start complaining. The desk clerk says "that is the wrong key". I say "no, it is the key you gave me". He says " you are mistaken sir, you are in room 142 and the key / key cover is for room 320". I say " this is the key you gave me". He says "sir, this is Sheridan, WY, and the key/key cover you have is from Cody, WY, look at the phone number". F-me, he is correct and I subsequently go to my room and purge the 29 Dominos keys which I have been jamming into my riding pants.

I go into a steak joint, go to the bar (which if you are a single diner is the most efficient way to get a meal, plus I have garnered so many travel tips from people I have met at the bar). Hardly glance at the menu, order and my wine arrives. Funny, I think. How many places in the middle of nowhere have this Merlot from Chateau st. Michelle? Then the salad comes, things are really getting creepy. Steak arrives and now I'm in the twilight zone. Finally figure out that I'm in a local steak joint chain and just ordered the same meal, in a different city, three days ago. Time to start heading home.

Jackson to Moran Jct., to Riverton to Sheridan, WY via Big Horn park and pass

This is what bad golfers call a round where you "grip it and rip it". In my situation, a perfect day. Bert and I needed to just ride in good surroundings, no tourists, no tricky curves, just good open road. The route I picked was perfect, though much longer than anticipated (on a map, the routes are only 2-3 inches, but F-me, this is out west). Open it up to 85mph, but ended up being a plodder compared to the locals whom blew by me at 95+ MPH.

As with every day on the trip, beautiful and stunning and humbling. What a fricking country we are in. Again, how did people walk across our country before there were McDonald's or Starbucks??

Bert and I just rode, looked at the scenery and grinned.

We were going to stop in Thermopolis for a hot bath, but Bert forgot his swim suit. Took a pict on the way past the spa

Second part of Jackson to Jackson loop

Sitting in a hotel lobby listening to some woman jabber into her cell phone. Or should I say yelling into her phone so that everyone within a 50 mile radius can hear everything about her red couch, terrible boyfriend, the bills she owes, etc. I'm hoping they finally allow cell phone conversations on flights, I will never fly again.

The last time I was in Jackson (many years ago), we took the boat across Jenny Lake towards the mountains. We ran in to a neighbor from A2 who was a professor at UM. He was there with his family and proceeded to brag about how he was getting the U to pay for his vacation. Every time my annual alumni solicitation arrives in the mail (ironically about the same time my summer taxes arrive) I smile as I calmly deposit the solicitation in the recycle bin . 

Beautiful scenery on the ride, but arriving in Idaho a stark reminder of water issues in the west. The level of the Palisades Reservoir, on the Idaho side of the Tetons, has to be down 30-50ft. You can see where the water line was. Unbelievable. Alpine, the town at the end of Reservoir, is probably 100-200feet from the shoreline.  Beautiful houses, on the side of the mountains look over barren sand instead of water. So sad.

A couple of Picts before the next installment. 

Boy Scout Antlers. The Jackson to Jenny Lake to Wilson to Victor to Alpine to Jackson loop

The Boy Scouts of Jackson, WY have a great deal going on. The Scouts control rights to collect and sell elk antlers that are shed in the National Elk Refuge, which is HUGE. Last year, the Scouts gathered 6,514 pounds of antlers and sold them for $61,761. Rumor is that they have  collected millions via antler sales over the years.

I read that on a hockey card, so I cannot verify the data.

The route today was north from Jackson towards Yellowstone, wait 30 minutes for "road construction"  (5 guys doing nothing on side of the road), then take side road back towards Jenny Lake.  Stop and take pictures, rest and then continue the loop. Take twisty road  to Wilson, turn right towards Idaho and either put on snow chains or knobbies. Keep climbing hills until you can't breathe or your pants are soiled from decent into awesome gorges. Then head for Victor, ID, Alpine, back over the mountains to Jackson.

A few Picts and then the story continues.

Oh, no not a good time to ride.

867-5309, Jenny (lake)

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Always hard to post from Nowhere - Cody, WY to Jackson via lots of roads and tourists and Elk antlers and greased pigs - part 2

When the family did the "out west trip", we went to a Dude Ranch located right outside the entrance   to Yellowstone. One of the side trips from the ranch was a trip into Cody to see a rodeo. Once we got to the rodeo, there was an opportunity to sign up for the greased pig contest. Patrick decided to participate. A bunch of small kids got out into the middle of the stadium and try to tackle a greased pig - so funny. I do not remember taking a camera, but certainly remember the kids chasing the pig.

I bypassed the usual tourist stuff and headed towards Jackson. The Tetons are amazing.  I decided to mimic the Harley guys and ride sans helmet (you go so slow in the park with all the traffic). I now understand two things; it is awesome (but still stupid) to ride without a helmet and I know now why they wear bandanas. Actually I learned it the following day when my dome was on fire from the sunburn.

I took about 200 Picts of the Tetons,  including these:

Elk horn story tomorrow

Always hard to post from Nowhere - Cody, WY to Jackson via lots of roads and tourists and Elk antlers and greased pigs - part 1

Neil said "everyone knows this is nowhere". And when its nowhere, there is no internet and stuff.

This is a proven fact. So I will now try and catch up.

The ride from Cody, via Yellowstone, to Jackson (Hole) is as unique as the ride across Beartooth. Totally different scenery, I forgot how much of a contrast there is. The Cody route is mostly barren (of vegetation) until you reach the park. But the scenery is still spectacular. When I got through the park, I wanted to find a hotel and watch Westerns for 24 hours straight. In spite of the traffic and tourists, the ride from Cody was impressive:

Notice the Big Boy , where did he come from???